Germany Food and Drink: Tea Culture
History
Tea was introduced to Germany in 1610 via the northeastern region of East Frisia whose seafaring merchants traded with the Dutch East India Company. Used for medicinal purposes, tea was initially sold throughout Germany in apothecaries. However, by the early 1700s, it had become East Frisians’ favorite beverage. In the 19th century, when coffee culture took hold of the rest of Germany, East Frisians stayed faithful to tea, in part because it was so economical. Unlike coffee grounds, tea leaves could be recycled and when guests dropped by unexpectedly, one could easily add another handful of leaves to already strong brew. Tea was a major presence in daily East Frisian life when the outbreak of World War II led to rationing that severely curtailed Germans’ monthly tea consumption to 0.5 ounces (10 grams) per person. During this time, East Frisians resorted to making improvised infusions brewed from herbs. Even after the war, tea was so scarce that they traded more expensive butter to Germans in other regions in exchange for tea leaves. Today, German tea consumption has risen to all-time highs. Even so, while the average German consumes around 1.5 pounds (680 g) a year of tea leaves, the average East Frisian, for whom tea continues to play an essential sustaining role, consumes 5.5 pounds (2,495 g), a quantity equivalent to the tea-loving British.
Cultivation
Although Germany’s cold climate is poorly suited to tea growing, there exists small-scale cultivation of herbs—such as Matricaria recutita, known popularly as “German chamomile”—used in popular herbal teas.
Popular Varieties
Traditionally, residents of East Frisia, or Ostfriesland, have been devoted to a style of strong black tea they invented, known as Ostfriesen tea. Blended by local producers, Ostfriesen tea is often only available in East Frisia itself. Recipes for blends are carefully guarded but usually consist of up to 90 percent northern Indian Assam leaves, which yield a dark, rich tea, mixed with Ceylon leaves that add a lighter, fruitier tone.
In other parts of Germany, coffee—and coffee houses—still dominate, with Germans drinking more coffee per year than they do beer, wine, and mineral water combined. However, tea consumption is growing and in 2016 reached a record high. Black teas and fruit teas are popular, as are chamomile, fennel, rose hip, and peppermint teas. Today, German tea drinkers are increasingly drawn to innovative, high-quality, single-estate tea blends that incorporate original preparation methods and new flavors. Sustainability is prized as much as health benefits. Indeed, many herbal and fruit teas are prescribed for medicinal use and sold at pharmacies.
How It's Enjoyed
East Frisian tea culture is so particular—and prominent—that in 2016 it received the UNESCO Cultural Heritage designation. The East Frisian tea ceremony begins by placing a piece of rock sugar, kluntje, in each cup, and then pouring the loose-leaf tea over it. The hot tea often causes the sugar to make an enjoyable cracking sound. Next, a small dollop of cream is added to the edge of the cup. The cream sinks and rises, becoming a wulkje, or “little cloud.” Because the tea isn’t stirred, each sip yields a different taste: the milkiness of the cream, followed by the bitterness of the tea, with sugary sweetness at the end. Traditionally, East Frisians gather together for four tea rituals a day: at breakfast, mid-morning, late afternoon, and dinner. According to a local proverb, three cups of tea per sitting is a minimum (and a fundamental right!) Tea services are also traditional, featuring fine porcelain teapots, saucers, and small delicate cups, often decorated with a rose pattern known as “East Frisian Rose.” Classic accompaniments include cookies and cakes such as the ostfriesischen Teekuchen (East Frisian tea cake), a simple vanilla cake topped with slivered almonds and cinnamon.
In other parts of Germany, tea service is less formal. However, concern with the tea’s origins combined with its health benefits mean that German tea drinkers prefer to purchase loose leaf tea. In fashionable urban tea houses and at home, tea is often served in glasses, sometimes with rock sugar, rarely with milk. Herbal teas are commonly drunk as cures for emotional and physical ailments, ranging from stress and mild depression to inadequate milk for breastfeeding mothers.
Interesting Facts
While Germans are known for their excellent beers and their long-standing fondness for them, East Frisians have often preferred a cup of tea to a pint of ale. In fact, by the 18th century, their disdain for homegrown brews was such that Prussian monarchs grew alarmed and in 1778, the king went so far as to pass legislation that prohibited tea drinking. Outraged citizens reacted to this draconian measure with acts of civil disobedience and tea smuggling accompanied by illicit, underground tea drinking. Realizing that the ban was to no avail, the king rescinded it two years later.
Article written for World Trade Press by Michael Sommers.
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